Double Crossing the Dragon

The Drakensberg Grand Traverse is a well-established route in which the KwaZulu-Natal Drakensberg Escarpment is traversed, usually between Sentinel Car Park and the Bushman’s Nek Border Post. The route typically takes 10 to 14 days to complete, covers 200–250km depending on variations, and involves a vertical gain equivalent to climbing Kilimanjaro two to three times.

The concept of a speed traverse has existed for many years. The rules for the current Grand Traverse Record Race were established in February 1999, when a team led by Gavin Raubenheimer completed the route in 4 days, 9 hours and 39 minutes. The current record-holders are Ryno Griesel and Ryan Sandes, who set a time of 1 day, 17 hours and 49 minutes in March 2014. While many have attempted a speed traverse, few have succeeded in completing the challenging route.

In March 2016, while taking a leisurely hike around the Mnweni Cutback, I mentioned to 15-year-old Mike “Hobbit” van Wyngaard that I was considering something never done before – completing two consecutive Drakensberg Grand Traverses. I told him to take a week to decide whether he wanted to join. It took him about eight seconds.

Over the next nine months, we trained intensely – 800km of hard Drakensberg trekking, plus hundreds more elsewhere. We did night hikes, tough passes and long ridge routes. Neither of us had ever trained so hard. Finally, the big day arrived.

Setting out for the first of two full traverses of the Drakensberg.

The start was rocky – literally and figuratively. Upon arriving at Bushman’s Nek, Mike realised he’d forgotten his headlamp and food. The delay to fetch them from Underberg cost us some time, but we still set off only five minutes behind schedule at 9:00 am.

A tough start with hail and high winds on the escarpment.

Upon reaching the escarpment, we were greeted by hail and gale-force winds. Being pelted in the face by hail is no fun, and we soon questioned our sanity. We pushed on but stopped 15km short of our goal, finding an unmarked cave near the top of Tsepeng Pass for shelter.

Finding refuge from the storm in an unmarked cave.

Day two went better, though a massive storm forced us to take cover in a cave shared with about 20 goats. We reached the first checkpoint, Thabana Ntlenyana – the highest point in Southern Africa – on day three.

Thabana Ntlenyana – the highest point in Southern Africa.

By day three’s end we were back on track, though we narrowly missed being struck by lightning atop Giant’s Castle, the second checkpoint. Mike, soaked and exhausted, had now also completed the Khulu Challenge – summiting all 26 peaks above 3,300m in South Africa plus Thabana Ntlenyana.

High winds and lightning on Giant’s Castle tested our resolve.

Day four went smoothly, with 48km covered in daylight and two checkpoints – Mafadi and Champagne Castle – completed. Day five was quieter, with Cleft Peak added, plus a few “bonus” summits like Mahout and Ntonjelana Ridge Peak.

Champagne Castle – one of several checkpoints on the Grand Traverse.

On day six, we started early for the final 40km. Fatigue set in on Stimela Ridge and Mont-Aux-Sources, but we pressed on. We descended the Chain Ladders and reached Sentinel Car Park in 5 days, 7 hours and 6 minutes – the 15th fastest time ever recorded and only the third in the south-to-north direction.

Finishing the first traverse at Sentinel Car Park.

After four days’ rest, we began the return traverse with Drakensberg legend and solo-speed record holder Andrew Porter, aiming for an 80-hour time. Day one went well – 40km to Nguza Cave in 11 hours. Day two, however, was brutal – 59km and 2600m ascent tested us all, even Andrew, who had recently run across Nepal.

Long climbs and heavy packs made for gruelling progress.

By day three, fatigue was mounting. We camped in Giant’s Cave and agreed to extend the schedule by a day. Climbing Giant’s Castle again was slow, but we took time to enjoy the view and mark Mike’s earlier Khulu Challenge completion properly.

Second time on Giant’s Castle – this time under clear skies.

Day four began strong – we accepted that 80 hours was off the table, but a four-day finish remained possible. However, as we crossed Sehonghong Ridge, the mountains unleashed their fury. Within minutes, a violent summer storm drenched us. We took shelter at Sani Stones Lodge, forfeiting our unsupported status but avoiding hypothermia.

When the Drakensberg storms, there’s nowhere to hide.

We spent the next day drying gear and regrouping. Rain persisted, forcing a relocation to Sani Mountain Lodge. On day six, the rain paused, and we pressed on – covering the final 50km in just over 12 hours via the Giant’s Cup Trail to complete the journey.

End of an extraordinary 463km journey through the Dragon’s Mountains.

Our time of 126 hours and 55 minutes didn’t qualify as a speed attempt due to our supported stop, but completing two full Drakensberg Grand Traverses in 15 days, 7 hours and 50 minutes was a first. In total, we covered 463km with 18,701m of elevation gain. Mike joined an elite group of hikers with over 1,000km of Drakensberg hiking in a single year – and one of very few to complete the traverse in both directions.

Full trip report available at Vertical Endeavour.