Giant's Cup Trail in a day

There are various hutted hiking trails in South Africa, and many debates about which is the hardest. While the Giants Cup Trail is most certainly not the hardest of them, it is not the easiest and is probably the highest. With a highest point below 2200 m, altitude isn’t a major factor, but the elevation profile – including more than 2000 m of altitude gain – makes it a real challenge.

I have had two shots at doing this trail in a day so far this year. Both ended in an ITB strain after a solid start. Being only three weeks after doing the Northern High Traverse in a Day, it was risky from an injury point of view – but sometimes you just jump in and hope for the best.

For clarity, references to trail days are based on the standard five-day configuration. All days described were completed in a single day on this occasion.

After an awesome braai at Sani Backpackers on Friday night, we set off on the trail at 5:39 AM on Saturday morning. It was misty, and the team was in high spirits.

The Giants Cup team sets off before sunrise. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

By Ngenwa Pool – possibly the best rock pool in the Drakensberg – the group had already become staggered. Mike and I decided to pace the trip out according to our own rhythm.

Ngenwa Pool – one of the most beautiful swimming spots in the Berg. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

As we left the Gxalingenwa River, the mist began to clear, and it was soon evident this would be a really hot day.

Morning light on the Giants Cup Trail. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

Day 1 of the Giants Cup Trail is fairly easy and even with a long stop at Ngenwa Pool, we reached Pholela Hut at an average pace just over 5 km/h. The target time was 12 hours – so far, so good.

Taking a quick break to enjoy the views. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

Our average pace, including breaks, was 5.3 km/h when we reached Cobham. After completing the register and chatting to others, we set off for the easiest day of the trail. Around the first hill, Mike realised he’d left his water bottle back at the register – the detour cost us 1 km, but we were still ahead of schedule.

Arriving at Cobham after a strong start. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

The Tortoise Rocks hill fell without much difficulty, and we saw some Eland on the top.

Eland on the ridge near Tortoise Rocks. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

We descended to Mzimkhulwana Hut, still well ahead of schedule. We stopped for 10 minutes – enough time to cool off in the river, refill bottles and eat.

Mzimkhulwana Hut – a perfect lunch stop. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

Leaving the hut, we knew the easy part of the day was over. The first two days of the Giants Cup Trail are definitely the gentlest. We paused to reapply sunscreen halfway up Bamboo Mountain Ridge – Mike was starting to feel the strain.

Crane Tarn, too low for a swim on this hot day. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

The 2 km road section of the trail was uninspiring but short. We pushed on to Wintershoek Hut with an average pace of 4.9 km/h – slightly behind, but still on track for 12 h 30 min overall.

Wintershoek Hut – refuelling before the final push. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

We stopped for a long break and set off again for Garden Castle Ridge. Our legs were starting to feel the 34 km already covered – with 28 km still ahead, things got tough.

Climbing Garden Castle Ridge in the afternoon heat. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

We hit a wall ascending the next ridge and took too many breaks, but soon reached the iconic Teapot formation.

The Teapot – a familiar landmark on the trail. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

At Swiman Hut, friendly faces and homemade soup from Christine Pickup revived us. Though we’d now technically accepted support, energy to finish strong mattered more.

Heading out for the final 15 km section. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

The flat section to the Mzimude River went smoothly, and we stopped to eat before tackling the biggest hill of the trail.

Approaching the Mzimude River in fading light. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

The final climb went surprisingly well. A storm rolled in as we reached Langalibalele Cave, where we waited briefly for it to pass before tackling the last plateau and descent.

The lights of the border post appeared – the end was in sight! We tagged Bushman’s Nek Hut, then the offices at 9:31 PM – 15 h 52 min after we began.

Finishing at Bushman’s Nek after 62 km and 2063 m ascent. Photo: Jonathan Newman.

We’d hoped to be faster, but considering the distance and conditions, 15 h 52 min wasn’t bad at all – a rewarding challenge and unforgettable day on the Giants Cup Trail.

Some statistics from the hike:

Distance: 62 km
Altitude gain: 2063 m
Average pace: 3.9 km/h

For more of Jonathan’s adventures, visit his blog – Ghaznavid Hiking.