The Himalayas | Everest Base Camp
It’s been twelve days since I left South Africa, and today I’ll finally make my way to Everest Base Camp. I’ll climb for the first time above 5000 meters ASL. For this final section of the trek, I return to my diary.
Duration: 7 days
Distance: Lobuche to Gorak Shep to EBC (17600ft): 8km
Altitude gain: 450m / 1476ft
Distance: Gorak Shep to Kala Patthar (18200ft): 1.5km
Altitude gain: 410m / 1345ft
Mt. Everest.
22/10/2017
Lobuche to Gorak Shep (16728ft) to Everest Base Camp (EBC) to Gorak Shep.
It was a long day of walking on loose rock. Traffic was heavy as the footpath is narrow and single-file most of the way.
The Khumbu amphitheatre is magnificent — Pumori, Lingtren, Khumbutse and Nuptse tower in every direction.
I’m pleasantly surprised by Gorak Shep. Its setting is spectacular.
Gorak Shep. On the left is the path to Kala Patthar; on the right, the moraine leading to EBC.
Pumori on the left, Nuptse on the right. The flat triangle is where the highest cricket match in the world was played.
After lunch, we set off for Everest Base Camp. It feels like a long, slow walk. No power in my legs.
EBC is supercalifragilisticexpialidocious. It sits right next to the Khumbu Glacier, with a clear view of the formidable icefall. A Japanese couple gets engaged — she’s a keeper in my books.
MADE IT! EBC, 5364m ASL.
From left to right: Ryan, Nga-wang and myself.
Before the trip, I’d read that the highest known ancient settlements are found around 17,000ft — long before humans could measure altitude. They must have simply known that going higher made them ill. Mountaineers call 8000m the death zone, but perhaps it begins much lower.
This is the closest I’ll ever be to China — Tibet lies scarcely a kilometre away via the Lho La Pass.
23/10/2017
I slept badly, short of breath but excited for the climb to Kala Patthar. We set off at 04:00 to reach the summit before sunrise. It’s freezing cold. It takes me one hour forty minutes to reach the top — exhausted but one of the first there. The first light on the peaks is surreal.
Ama Dablam seen from Kala Patthar before sunrise. My favourite photo from the whole trek.
The temperature is -9°C before sunrise, with a cold wind blowing up from the valley. The view of Everest is astounding.
An epic moment…
By the time the sun peeks over the South Col, I start descending. The light is perfect — though late afternoon must be even better. After breakfast at Gorak Shep, we descend to Lobuche and I collapse into a blissful nap.
Looking back to Kala Patthar — trekkers’ silhouettes etched against Pumori.
24/10/2017
Freezing cold morning in Lobuche. We attempt to cross the Khumbu moraine toward Kongma La, but a deep glacial pool blocks our way. After an hour of searching, we turn back.
The glacial pool that stopped us — too wide to cross safely.
We retreat toward Dughla and Dingboche. My Achilles tendon starts to ache. We pause for lunch near Chola Tsho — a stunning view of Tabuche and Cholatse.
Lunch spot — Tabuche and Cholatse with Tsola Tso in front.
After 22km, we reach Dingboche. My first shower in seven days — bliss! Rs500 well spent. Clouds move in as the afternoon cools. I worry about my ankle; still 45km to Lukla.
25–28/10/2017
The following days blur into a mixture of cold mornings, long descents, and quiet reflection. Ama Dablam glows at sunrise. I rest in Pangboche, photograph the Dudh Koshi River, and eventually make my way back through Namche to Lukla. My ankle protests, but I push through. Finally — I’ve made it.
Lukla, with fresh snow on the mountains.
Final thoughts
After a day in Kathmandu, I board my flight home. The Himalayas have left a mark deeper than words can express. “Unbelievable,” “Unforgettable,” “Epic” — none capture the feeling. You have to go there to understand. The Nepalese people, their kindness, and those colossal mountains — unforgettable.
Click here for Part 1, 2 and 3 of Eksteen’s Himalayan journey.
To see more of Eksteen’s photography, visit waytogophotography.co.za.