The Himalayas | Part 3
Distance: 12km
Vertical altitude gain: 500m / 1640ft
Price for one liter of water in:
Kathmandu: Rs50 (≈ ZAR7)
Namche Bazaar: Rs150
Dingboche: Rs200
Lobuche: Rs300
Duration: 1 day
Dingboche – Day 6
It’s freezing cold. As I open my eyes, the sun has not yet risen — Dingboche lies in the shadow of Ama Dablam’s morning silhouette. Our windows are frosted over, and I’ve had a fitful night’s sleep with a nosebleed to boot.
Today we say goodbye to Des, Hein, Chris and one of the guides, Asmit. Dingboche is their turnaround point. Going forward, our group now consists of Ryan, Umberto, Wayne, myself, and our guide Nga-wang.
Ryan, Wayne and Umberto taking in the scenery.
The Dingboche (14,465 ft) to Lobuche (16,105 ft) trek is 12km long, with a vertical gain of 500 meters — about six hours of walking. This stretch is a definite highlight. Soon after leaving Dingboche, the Tabuche and Cholatse peaks rise to our left — 2,000 vertical meters above us. It’s a tremendous sight. Our pace is slow as Wayne and I constantly stop for photos, but the biting cold wind on our backs hastens us along.
Too big not to take a panorama. Pheriche bottom left. Peaks from left: Kangtega (6685m), Thamserku (6608m), Tabuche (6367m) and Cholatse (6335m).
Views for days
The trail starts busy but soon spreads out as we cross a wide grassland where yaks graze. The gradient is kind, provided you don’t rush. After an hour’s hike we pause for a snack, taking in the vast scenery ahead.
Yaks making their way to Dhugla. Lobuche East on the left.
As we approach Dughla (4620m), the glacial lake Chola Tsho appears at the foot of Cholatse — a surreal milky-aqua colour caused by glacial sediment. The contrast of turquoise water, dark rock, white ice and cobalt sky is glorious.
Chola Tsho with Cholatse towering above.
Dughla
We cross the Dudh Koshi moraine to reach Dughla for lunch. Across the valley, the Thokig Pass climbs to 4830m — only 200m higher, but intimidating. I steel myself to climb it without stopping. It’s a punishing ascent, but after half an hour, we’re at the top, exhausted but exhilarated.
Dhugla left, Thokig Pass centre, Lobuche East in the background.
Climbers’ Memorial
A frigid wind greets us atop the pass. Only the highest peaks pierce the mist. Wayne tells us about the Climbers’ Memorial — a stone tribute to those lost on Everest. Among the plaques I find the name Anatoli Boukreev, hero and victim of the 1996 Everest disaster. A sobering moment.
Prayer flags at the Climbers’ Memorial.
Climbers’ Memorial, Thokig Pass.
We continue into a stark new world — rock, ice, wind and little oxygen. To our right lies the Khumbu Glacier, hidden from view. Soon Pumori (7165m), Lingtren (6749m), and Nuptse (7861m) appear. We’ve reached the heart of the Himalayas — the roof of the world.
Nuptse from Lobuche.
Lobuche
Two hours later we reach Lobuche and check into Hotel Peak XV. It’s noisy, cramped and cold — every movement echoes through the walls. I’m restless and irritable, the altitude pressing on both body and mind.
Lingtren (6749m) to the left.
I lie down, too tired to remove boots or wet clothes. Every time I relax, I jolt awake gasping for air — altitude insomnia. It’s now been five days since my last proper wash. Wet wipes will have to do.
Entering the Khumbu Glacier — Pumori, Lingtren and Nuptse from left to right.
Wayne’s World
I now share a room with Wayne — a lively, endlessly curious soul who knows these mountains well. His positivity is infectious. In these harsh conditions, that’s priceless.
Three dudes chilling between the clouds — Wayne, Ryan and Umberto.
As I lie in bed after dinner, I long for basic comforts — a proper toilet and uninterrupted sleep. Tomorrow we push on to Gorak Shep and Everest Base Camp. Though surrounded by beauty, I realise my body is in a quiet battle for survival. The toughest days still lie ahead.
Click here for Part 1, here for Part 2, and the link below for the final instalment of Eksteen’s Himalayan journey.
To see more of Eksteen’s photography, visit waytogophotography.co.za.