Xeni Pass/Bell Traverse loop in a day

For many years Didima Nature Reserve has been my personal favourite region of the Drakensberg. With the Cathedral Peak ridge, the Column and the Pyramid, the Organ Pipes and the Didima Cutback – it is truly a special area. I could list many reasons why Didima is my first choice in terms of beauty, but one small area stands head and shoulders above the rest – the cutback between Cockade Peak and the Elephant.

Cockade Peak from Xeni Pass.

Having made three different trips that included Cockade Pass, its northern neighbour continued to elude me. Seeing as it stood as the only pass marked on the Geoseries Maps that I had not completed, I knew I needed to head out and bag the notorious Xeni Pass.

Marco capturing the sunrise from Neptune Hill. Mlambonja Buttress and Pass in the background.

Marco and I left Cathedral Peak Hotel at 5:30am. After briefly having a bit of difficulty finding the correct road to walk on, we found ourselves slogging up the route to Neptune Pools in the dark. We reached the point where the trail starts winding up the hill around sunrise. We continued up the hill, reaching the contour path around 7:15.

Sunrise from the contour path above Neptune Hill.

We stopped for a break on the contour path. Weather was perfect, but there was a lot of smoke in the air due to fires throughout the region.

As we completed the contour path section and dropped to the Xeni River, we were surprised to see some snow left on the vegetation as low as 2000m.

Early morning frost along the Xeni River.

The approach to Cockade and Xeni Pass is well known for being overgrown, although I am not entirely sure why – any number of pass approaches that are considerably worse come to mind.

Xeni Pass as seen from the turn off from the contour path.

The riverbed was very iced up, which made the approach a bit trickier than normal.

Ice on the rocks during the ascent.

After reaching the Xeni/Cockade split, it was new ground for both of us. The pass starts with a series of waterfalls which are bypassed by a steep grass side slope.

Marco scrambling up a steep grass slope.

Eventually an easy traverse back into the gully is reached, and you can return into the gully. The gully includes various scrambles – some of which are fairly loose.

The gradient of the pass is definitely rather substantial!

As you get higher, the views become more and more impressive. The cliffs of Elephant and Cockade are visible in the distance, while the mighty Leopard towers above you. Higher up, the gully narrows, making for some dramatic views.

Pyramid and Column come into view behind Cockade as you gain height.

Approaching the famous wormhole near the top.

Summit selfie after a long ascent.

We were back at the hotel by 20:30, meaning that we took 15 hours to complete our 31km hike. Not express pace by any means, but also notably not the easiest route around.

Overall, I rate Xeni Pass as one of the toughest passes I have done, but also one of the most worthwhile. I must stress that it should only be attempted by experienced hikers who are comfortable with heights and scrambling. There are also sections of loose rock on the scrambles where great care needs to be taken.

Also, a big thanks to the staff of Albert’s Bar at Cathedral Peak Hotel for arranging food for us after the hike!

For more information on Xeni Pass, check out the route description here.