Drakensberg Passes | Xeni Pass

Pass name: Xeni Pass
Region: Didima Nature Reserve, Northern KZN Drakensberg
Distance from the parking to the top: 15km
Difficulty: Extreme (8)*
Scenery: Exceptional!
Route type: ROCK
Risks: Difficult scrambling, exposed in places, no trail

* Most Drakensberg passes fall into the extreme difficulty category. To differentiate the “easy” ones from the harder ones, a rating out of 10 is included after the extreme rating. For more information, check out the Drakensberg Passes Intro article.

Xeni Pass from the bottom.

Introduction

Xeni Pass lies in the cutback between Leopard Peak and Mlambonja Buttress. It sees more traffic than one might expect, being situated in one of the most popular areas of the Drakensberg. But don’t be fooled – it is one of the hardest passes in the range and has had at least one fatality in the past.

Getting There

The hike starts from the Cathedral Peak Hotel parking lot. If you ask Google Maps for directions to the hotel, it will take you directly to the starting point. You can park at the boom gate (the usual hikers’ parking) and walk up the hill to the hotel for the start of the trail, or pay the entrance fee at the gate (currently R50 per vehicle). The entrance fee gets you a small discount at the hotel, so you can enjoy a meal or drink there after your hike.

Make sure to stop at the Ezemvelo Didima Offices to purchase hiking permits and complete the rescue register.

From Johannesburg:

1) Take the N3 South (Durban) to Harrismith and turn right toward Bethlehem.
2) Roughly 15km out of town, turn left for Bergville.
3) Drive through Bergville and, after leaving the town, turn right at the sign for Didima/Cathedral Peak Hotel.
4) After a few kilometres, turn right again at another sign that says Didima/Cathedral Peak Hotel.
5) Stay on this road until it ends at the hotel.

From Durban:

1) Take the N3 North (Johannesburg) to the Winterton/Colenso offramp.
2) Turn right toward Winterton.
3) At Winterton, turn left at the traffic lights.
4) After roughly 1km, turn right at the first turnoff.
5) After about 10km, turn right at the T-junction.
6) After about 1km, turn left at the sign for Didima/Cathedral Peak Hotel.
7) Stay on this road until it ends at the hotel.

Route Description

Follow the road up the hill behind the hotel past the phone tower. When the road becomes dirt, look out for a split and take the right fork. You’ll soon find yourself on a soccer field. Follow the trail from the far side of the field and, whenever you see a turnoff, take the one that points to Neptune Pools.

The trail will eventually zigzag up a large hill before reaching the contour path at a particularly scenic spot. Turn left on the contour path and follow it until it meets a large riverbed — the Xeni River.

Pyramid and Column with Cleft Peak in the distance, as seen from Neptune Hill.

Boulder-hop up the river – the riverbed is easier than the overgrown slopes for most of the distance. When the obvious gully to your left breaks off (Cockade Pass), continue straight, which will feel more like turning right.

Looking towards Xeni Pass from where you leave the contour path.

Initially, you’ll need to move left onto the steep grassy slopes to bypass waterfalls. A large rock pinnacle marks the point where you walk behind it.

Steep scrambling on the lower section of the pass.

Eventually the grass slopes lead you back into the gully. Occasionally it’s necessary to break out of the gully to bypass obstacles, but for the most part, the gully itself is the easiest route.

One of the many scrambles to bypass a waterfall. The view high up on the pass.

Near the top, a large chockstone covers the gully — the famous wormhole, and arguably the best part of the pass. Walk under it, then follow the obvious line up the spiral staircase until you’re on top. Walk over the rock bridge in the middle to complete a perfect spiral and continue up the gully, which becomes easier after this point.

The chockstone/wormhole.

For experienced hikers with a good head for heights and solid scrambling ability, this route is incredibly rewarding. However, if you lack either, it’s strongly advised not to attempt this pass.

Essential Gear

A hauling rope is recommended for this route, as you might want to hoist packs up some of the steeper scrambles.

Otherwise, standard Drakensberg hiking gear is required: a good raincoat, warm fleece, and sturdy hiking boots.

The Pyramid and Column from high up on Xeni Pass.