Malolotja Hike

Malolotja Nature Reserve includes over 18 000 hectares of mountain wilderness in the north-west of Swaziland. The reserve protects wetland, woodland, highveld grassland and mistbelt forest habitats for a wide variety of plant and animal life.

Beauty: 4.5/5
Difficulty (fitness): 8/10
Technical rating of trail: Standard trail walking. No flat areas – either steep up or steep down. Path can disappear – GPS or map reading skills essential.

Friday, 12 January 2018

Being resident in Nelspruit, we were able to leave home by 13:30. We travelled through the Oshoek Border Post and, although it’s normally busy on a Friday afternoon, everything went well and it was a pleasant experience at both border posts. Don’t forget to ensure you have R50 or 50 Emalangeni cash to pay your Swazi road tax. They do accept cards, but it takes longer to process.

Once in Swaziland we headed for the Malolotja Reserve main camp (26° 8’25.67″S, 31° 8’8.87″E). We never made prior arrangements as we were not using the local accommodation and intended to hit the trail as soon as we arrived.

At the main camp we were greeted in the typical friendly Swazi fashion. We booked and paid for our two nights in the reserve. Make sure you have your own printed or electronic map of the reserve and trails, as they no longer supply maps at reception.

We left the main camp by 16:00 and headed past the campsite via Mortimas Dam in a north-westerly direction towards Logwala Lookout. This section follows a well-defined trail and road network – the real hike starts after the lookout.

Our target before dark was Camp #6 next to the river. We made it with enough time to pitch our tents. We enjoyed an awesome starlit night and banked a good night’s rest.

Saturday, 13 January 2018

Early start, coffee, breakfast, and we hit the trail. We had two options to get to Camp #7: a short route and a long route. The weekend had turned out blistering hot with “heatwave warnings”, so we opted for the short route.

We climbed out of the valley to an awesome sight. In the far distance was Silotwane Peak; the valley below was covered in mist, and in the foreground not far from us were no fewer than five different antelope species.

Eland, Hartebeest, Black Wildebeest, Zebra and Blesbok were grazing in the early morning light. A Steppe Buzzard and Black Saw-wing (Swallow) soared overhead – and most excitingly, a glimpse of the endangered Blue Swallow. All were aware of our presence but not spooked; we simply soaked in the beauty and remembered how privileged we were!

Once we set off again, we found the landmark “zig-zag” or cutback path, which led rapidly down into the riverine forest. While descending, the environment changed from montane grassland to dense riverine forest. With this change, the sounds shifted too – the deafening song of cicadas filled the air, while bird calls became more frequent. The elusive Eastern Nicator could be heard clearly, but remained unseen.

Once along the river, it was an easy trail to Camp #7. For the first time ever on a trail, we reached our destination before lunch – 11:00 to be exact! We pitched tents and had a swim in the ice-cold river. Feeling refreshed after lunch, we decided Silotwane Peak was doable. Without backpacks – just water and sun protection – we set off at 12:00 to summit Silotwane.

We bushwhacked the shortest route out of the forest and onto the grasslands. The correct peak is easy to identify – simply the highest one in sight. We knew it was about 4 km to the top and allowed a maximum of three hours before turning back.

We found a stream halfway up, and water was never an issue on this trail; however, careful planning in drier months is essential. We filled our bottles and pushed up the last section.

We peaked shortly after 15:00 (1666 m, 26° 5’13.34″S, 31° 4’28.84″E) to an absolutely awesome view. Looking west was South Africa, and the rest was the beautiful Malolotja landscape. With time tight, we started our descent. Tough on the knees and legs, but we were back in camp with plenty of daylight to spare. We soaked our feet in the cold river water, had dinner, and hit the sack.

Sunday, 14 January 2018

Another early start: breakfast, coffee, and pack up. We planned to head back along the river on the marked trail to Camp #8, and then ascend out of the valley back to Logwala Lookout. All was good until the path disappeared. We bumbled around in the bush for over half an hour looking for the path, noticing definite elephant dung – old, but unnerving to know these giants could be nearby.

Elephant dung found along the trail.

We eventually found a stone cairn across the river and picked up the trail again. We reached Camp #8, which confirmed our position, but the trail soon faded once more. Knowing roughly where it should lead, we tackled the thick forest and took the shortest route up. It was a gruelling climb, but persistence paid off and we intersected the correct path again.

Although we were back on track, the gradient remained steep as we climbed out of the valley. The view of the Malolotja Waterfall was a good reason to stop, catch our breath, and take a photo.

As we approached the lookout, we hoped to hitch a lift back to main camp, but no vehicles were in sight. This meant a midday push of 4 km back to main camp.

We reported back and bought an ice-cold Sibebe. We ordered a late lunch and drove down to the campsite for a long shower and clean clothes.

After lunch we headed back to Nelspruit, and again both border posts were a pleasant experience. We were back home by 18:00.

Conclusion

All in all, Malolotja Swaziland was an awesome hiking experience. Great place, great people, and great value for money. I would encourage everyone who can to go and experience the grandeur and beauty of the Malolotja Reserve.

We enjoy the path less travelled – and Malolotja ranks up there with the Drakensberg and Wolkberg.

Should anyone need our tracks or any information pertaining to the Malolotja Reserve, please don’t hesitate to contact me.

Click here for a map of the reserve and here for a map of estimated walking times between camps.

Malolotja Contact Details

Phone: (+268) 2444 3241
Mobile: (+268) 7660 6755
Email: culturalvillage@sntc.org.sz

Alternatively, visit:
Swaziland National Trust Commission
The Kingdom of Swaziland