The Whale Trail

Beauty: 4.5/5 – The trail traverses through varied terrain, from pristine fynbos mountain slopes to striking orange cliffs overlooking the Indian Ocean, and along long stretches of blinding-white beaches with fascinating calcrete formations and rockpools teeming with marine life.
Difficulty Rating: Day 1, with a steep initial uphill, scores 6/10, while the other days are an easier 5/10.
Technical Rating: Easy to moderate standard walking. Days 1 and 2 follow a rocky mountain trail, while Day 4 can be tiring due to walking on soft beach sand.

Situated within the ecologically diverse and breath-taking De Hoop Nature Reserve, the Whale Trail is a 55 km slackpacking, multi-day hike. De Hoop, around three hours from Cape Town, is known for its dramatic dunes, pristine beaches, calcrete cliffs, and abundance of wildlife.

The Whale Trail starts at Potberg Hut, where hikers spend the night before departure. This allows time for a briefing by rangers on terrain, wildlife, safety, emergency procedures, and to pack food and luggage into containers provided for the slackpacking option (transported daily between huts).

Day 1: Potberg Hut to Cupidoskraal (15 km – tough)

Day 1 is the longest and most strenuous of the otherwise gentle trail. It begins with a steady 3–4 km climb to the highest point of the route (611 m). Cape vultures often soar overhead here, a spectacular sight. Unfortunately, our view was obscured by mist and rain, but the late-season fynbos put on a dazzling show — ericas and proteas in vivid pinks, reds, and yellows brought life to the grey landscape.

Bursts of fynbos brightening up the dreary day

The trail then descends along the watershed above Grootkloof and meanders across Potberg Mountain before dropping to Cupidoskraal. The path is well marked but can become waterlogged after rain, so caution is needed on descents. We arrived at Cupidoskraal cold and drenched — but the cozy hut with its large fireplace was a welcome refuge. Wet boots and socks dried in front of the fire while we napped the afternoon away.

Soggy socks and shoes at Cupidoskraal

Cupidoskraal lacks the dramatic ocean views of later huts — the stoep faces a gum tree forest — but it’s the perfect place for a relaxed, fireside evening with games and hearty food.

Day 2: Cupidoskraal to Noetsie (14.7 km – moderate)

We awoke to drizzle but set off once the rain eased. The day starts with a climb along the crest of Potberg, offering sweeping views of the Breede River and ocean. The fynbos was lush and alive with late-season colour, though the wind atop Potberg was icy and relentless. After a flat section, the trail drops steeply onto limestone hills, where the flora shifts dramatically — a transition zone known as an ‘ecotone’ where sandstone and coastal vegetation meet.

The steep descent where the terrain changes significantly

Port Jackson thickets line this stretch but are being actively cleared using an indigenous fungus — part of De Hoop’s ongoing alien eradication programme. Soon after, the trail descends to the spectacular Noetsie Hut, a highlight of the entire route.

Spotting Noetsie for the first time from the cliffs above

Noetsie Hut, rebuilt after a devastating storm, consists of two eco-designed wooden structures perched above the ocean. We spent the afternoon exploring tidal pools, watching whales, and basking in the sun on the rocks below the huts.

Whale watching from the communal area of Noetsie

Noetsie’s two braai areas — one between the huts, one sea-facing — make for memorable evenings. With clear skies, we feasted around the seaside fire as the light faded and stars appeared.

The Noetsie Boma

Day 3: Noetsie to Hamerkop (7.8 km – easy)

We started the day with a bracing sunrise dip in a natural rockpool below Noetsie — a wild, exhilarating “ocean bath”. The day’s short distance allows time to savour the stunning limestone cliffs and bonsai-like fynbos that grow in their cracks.

Natural fynbos ‘bonsai’ gardens formed within the limestone curves

The route hugs the cliffs — the best stretch for whale watching (August–October). We spotted several southern right whales with calves. The trail then drops to secluded coves before reaching Hamerkop Hut, nestled among dune fynbos above the beach.

Hamerkop is nestled amongst thick dune fynbos, overlooking the beach

The beach here is often littered with washed-up debris. Bring a bag to collect litter — every little bit helps protect this fragile coastline.

Just some of the rubbish collected on the way

As the sun dipped, we shared cheese platters on the deck, watching the sunset turn gold, then indigo — and later discovered that a colander and headlamp make a surprisingly good disco ball.

Makeshift colander disco ball

Day 4: Hamerkop to Vaalkrans (10.5 km – moderate)

This day follows soft beach sand — beautiful but tiring. Carry plenty of water. The shoreline reveals intricate calcrete formations, eroded over millennia, and deep rockpools alive with colour. There are ample swimming opportunities, but beware of rip currents.

The impressive shoreline on Day 4

We took our time — swimming, snacking, and soaking in the scenery — before arriving at Vaalkrans Hut, perched dramatically above a narrow bay where waves crash into the cliffs and seabirds swirl overhead.

Vaalkrans Hut, perched above the cliffs, makes for an unforgettable sunset spot

Day 5: Vaalkrans to Koppie Alleen (7 km – easy)

The final day winds through coastal fynbos and dips into hidden coves. We lingered for a long beach lunch and swim before heading towards Koppie Alleen and the Hippo Pools — a striking aquamarine finale to an unforgettable hike. The boardwalks protect sensitive dune ecology, so stick to the trail here.

Lazing the last day away

Advice

• The Whale Trail costs approximately ZAR 2195 per person (excluding slackpacking transport). It’s an unforgettable, restorative adventure.
• Be prepared for all weather — sunscreen, hat, and a waterproof jacket are essential.
• Bring newspaper or a drying line for wet gear; facilities are limited.
• Pack spices in contact lens cases for easy cooking on the trail.
• Fairy lights make huts wonderfully atmospheric.
• Bring your own dishcloth, sponge, and detergent.
• Split cooking duties among teams — it adds fun and variety.
• Earplugs are vital for dormitory-style huts.
• August is best for whale sightings; September–October for wildflowers.
• Pack light — more room for luxury snacks and sundowners!

For more information and bookings

CapeNature Central Reservations
Tel: +27 (0)21 483 0190
Email: reservation.alert@capenature.co.za
Website: www.capenature.co.za