Drakensberg: Introduction to Mnweni

Mnweni is arguably the most scenic and dramatic area in the uKhahlamba-Drakensberg. It is also the only part of the northern Drakensberg range not situated within a national park — the surrounding foothills up to the escarpment are still tribal land, occupied by traditional Zulu communities and small-scale farmers. Officially, the area known as “Mnweni” is managed by the amaNgwane Tribal Authority and covers the region between Mount Amery and the Ntonjelana Ridge.

For hiking purposes, the area stretches from the Royal Natal National Park in the northeast to the Cathedral Peak area in the southwest — a vast range beginning at the southern edge of the Amphitheatre and Devil’s Tooth, curving around the valleys where the Mnweni River rises, and spanning across the dramatic escarpment that feeds the Orange (Senqu) River, all the way to the northern side of the breathtaking Bell and Cathedral Peak ridges.

En route to Rockeries Pass – the Rockeries and Mponjwane towering above.

The people in the lower valleys are friendly and welcoming, and walking through their farmlands past thatched-roof rondavels (and increasingly modern homes) is a treat. Usually, one spends only half a day passing through these settlements before reaching the more remote foothills — the gateway to the enormous passes, peaks, cliffs, and rock towers that define the Mnweni wilderness.

Getting There

All hikes start from the Mnweni Cultural Centre, approximately 400 km from Johannesburg and 270 km from Durban. The centre is reached via Bergville (about 35 km away), with the final 17 km being dirt road. You can find the Centre on Google Maps here.

Facilities and Permits

There are camping facilities and simple rondavels at the Mnweni Cultural Centre, but no shops or meals — you need to be fully self-sufficient.

Once on the trail, you’re in a true wilderness area. There are no marked paths or facilities, so good navigation skills and independence are essential. Expect to follow cattle and footpaths used by locals in the lower regions; higher up, most routes become faint, requiring navigation along riverbeds, slopes, and valleys.

Be sure to take the Slingsby KZN Wildlife Drakensberg Hiking Map #1: Rugged Glen – Mnweni.

Hiking permits (R60 per person per night, as of December 2018) must be purchased at the Cultural Centre, where you’ll also complete the rescue register.

Website and Contact Details

Due to limited connectivity, the centre does not maintain an active website. Staff contact details change periodically, but as of September 2019 the centre was fully operational.

• Bookings and enquiries: Leonard or Colleen – 072 712 2401 (SMS if calls go unanswered)
• Rondavels: R250 per person
• Overnight hiking permits: R60 per person per night
• Parking: Free

If you can’t make contact, it’s often best to simply go — most hikers report that things run smoothly on arrival.

Guides and Porters

For first-time visitors, a guide can be invaluable. The scale of the terrain makes navigation challenging, and porters are available for those wanting assistance (typically carrying 15 kg). Hiring local guides and porters also supports the community and promotes conservation awareness.

Try contacting the Cultural Centre first. Alternatively, these two individuals are known to offer reliable services:

Khumbulani – 076 989 7387
Caiaphus – 073 603 9107

Mid-winter hiking in the lower foothills; the Great Saddle looming ahead.

Passes and Hiking Routes

Because of the settlements and farmland in the lower foothills, the true Mnweni experience begins in the higher valleys leading to the passes. This is not a day-hiking area — reaching the escarpment via one of the passes should be part of your plan.

Strong hikers might manage a there-and-back weekend hike, but most Mnweni routes are 3–5 days. Proper planning, food, and wilderness gear are essential (see our multi-day packing guide).

Key passes in the Mnweni area include:

Ifidi – 9/10 **** (ROCK)
Icidi – 10/10 **
Mbundini – 7/10 ***
Fangs – 7/10 *****
Rwanqa – 8/10 **
Pins – not rated (ROCK)
Manxome – 9/10 *****
Mnweni – 6/10 ****
Rockeries – 5/10 ****
Ntonjelana – 4/10 **

All Berg passes are strenuous — these ratings are relative to one another, not to ordinary hiking trails (more about Drakensberg pass ratings here).

Starting the long descent of Mnweni Pass.

A great introductory multi-day hike — and one of South Africa’s finest — is the 4–5 day Rockeries–Mnweni Circuit, ascending via Rockeries Pass and descending Mnweni Pass. It’s a classic, but not to be underestimated.

The Mnweni Needles piercing a sea of clouds.

Fangs Pass is arguably the most scenic in the Drakensberg — remote, dramatic, and wild, yet not overly dangerous. A true bucket-list route.

The magnificent Fangs Pass.

Features

Mnweni is rich in sculpted valleys and dramatic rock formations. Notable highlights include:

• Madonna and Her Worshippers
• Mnweni Pinnacles
• The Hanging Valleys
• Mnweni Needles
• Mponjwane (Rockeries Tower)
• The Rockeries
• Ledges Cave

Madonna and Her Worshippers at sunset — as seen from below Fangs Pass.

Exploring the area around Mponjwane — the great Rockeries Tower.

The Hanging Valleys.

Caves and Camping

There’s ample camping in the higher foothills and several caves, though some are used by shepherds and traders. Always inspect before settling in. At the bases of passes, camping becomes more limited due to narrow valleys and rocky terrain — individual pass descriptions indicate reliable sites.

The escarpment offers abundant camping and a few exceptional caves — notably Ledges Cave and Mponjwane Cave, both near the source of the Senqu/Orange River. These deep overhangs provide fair shelter, though tents may be needed in high wind or rain.

Views from Mponjwane Cave.

Time of Year

Mnweni can be hiked year-round. Spring and autumn offer mild conditions and long days. Summer brings lush green slopes and dramatic thunderstorms, while winter offers crisp, clear skies and biting cold. Snow and sleet are possible anytime, and summer storms can make rivers impassable.

A summer sunrise from Mponjwane Cave — sea of clouds over the lowlands.

Safety

Mnweni is generally safe, but preparation is crucial. Weather changes rapidly and navigation errors can be serious. Theft incidents are rare and mostly opportunistic, but always remain vigilant. Hiking in groups and registering at the centre is strongly advised.

Before your trip, check the Berg Alert thread on Vertical Endeavour for recent reports.

Bliss in the Hanging Valleys.

Sustainability

Recent droughts, population pressures, and overgrazing have taken their toll on the lower slopes. Increased burning for agriculture — particularly cannabis farming — has severely affected vegetation, including ancient cycads. Erosion on trader routes like Mnweni, Rockeries, and Ntonjelana Passes remains a concern.

Despite this, Mnweni remains one of South Africa’s greatest wilderness treasures — wild, raw, and breathtaking. Hikers are encouraged to support the community, minimize impact, and help protect this extraordinary landscape.

Wedge Rock – quite an experience with 400 m of air below you.