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{"id":699,"date":"2017-09-22T14:01:44","date_gmt":"2017-09-22T12:01:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.hikingsouthafrica.co.za\/?p=699"},"modified":"2019-03-19T08:38:45","modified_gmt":"2019-03-19T06:38:45","slug":"fish-river-canyon-hiking-trail","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.hikingsouthafrica.co.za\/fish-river-canyon-hiking-trail\/","title":{"rendered":"Fish River Canyon Hiking Trail"},"content":{"rendered":"

The Fish River Canyon in Namibia is the largest canyon in Africa and you know it when you\u2019re there. The hike is 90kms long, but if you take all the shortcuts it works out to about 75km. It starts at the view site at Hobas and finishes at the Ai-Ais resort.<\/p>\n

\"Fish-River-Canyon-Hiking-Trail-Map\"<\/a>
Original Hiking Federation map. Click to download PDF version.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Over the last year we have happily been invited on four multi-day hikes. In December 2016, we did the Otter Trail, in March 2017 we did Witels, we have just completed the Fish River (September 2017), and we\u2019re heading for the Whale Trail in October 2017. Of the three done in the past year, the Fish River has been my favourite. The expanse and environment that one walks through is immense and creates a feeling of surrendered independence \u2013 it is just you, surrounded by ancient rocks, sand, water and your backpack. It is a stark landscape, and one needs to be entirely self-sufficient. It is awesome.<\/p>\n

Getting there<\/h2>\n

\"fish-river-canyon-gravel-road2\"<\/p>\n

Although it is far, the drive up from Cape Town is beautiful and it really doesn\u2019t feel too bad. That is, until you get two flat tyres just 20km from Ai-Ais and you\u2019re stranded in the middle of the freakin\u2019 desert. Luckily for us, our first flat happened just as our friends passed us and they had the savvy to realise that when we hadn\u2019t arrived at Ai-Ais two hours after them, they came back looking for us.<\/p>\n

[If this ever happens to any of you, get hold of Danie at Rassies Breakdown Service (+264811247141) \u2013 they were superstars. They collected our car, towed it to safety and replaced our tyres, all while we were hiking in the mighty canyon.]<\/em><\/p>\n

It worked really well sleeping at Ai-Ais before (and after) the hike. Their campsite is a fantastic option – just make sure to book all of this well in advance, as they don\u2019t do last minute bookings. The resort arranged a shuttle for us to the start of the hike.<\/p>\n

Day 1<\/h2>\n

\"fish-river-canyon-descent\"<\/p>\n

We only began hiking at 12:00 because our shuttle from Ai-Ais was a little late\u2026but all in good time, as they say. I had been warned many times about the extreme hike down into the canyon on day 1 at the start of the hike. While it is very steep, it\u2019s not half as hectic as the entry into the Witels, and so I was pleasantly surprised and found it manageable.<\/p>\n

\"fish-river-canyon-swimming\"<\/p>\n

At the bottom of the descent, we were greeted by the most beautiful, sandy beach with a big pool of water (and a friendly baboon) and had a most welcome swim to revive ourselves. After lunch we walked on for a few km\u2019s and then found a soft spot on the banks of the river to sleep.<\/p>\n

\"fish-river-canyon-sunset\"<\/p>\n

Most people I\u2019d spoken to prior to hiking the Fish advised that it gets freezing at night. Apparently, it can also get really windy at night and tents are recommended so that one doesn\u2019t breathe in wind-blown sand. However, we struck it lucky because it didn\u2019t rain during our trip and we had no wind – in fact, it was balmy in the evenings. Some of our group even chose to sleep out in the open.<\/p>\n

Day 2<\/h2>\n

\"fish-river-canyon-hikers-sand-cliffs\"<\/p>\n

Day two started with slow hiking through thick sand and over big boulders, and it was very hot. Luckily for us, there was still a fair bit of water in the river and so we found many pools for cheeky little swims along the way!<\/p>\n

\"fish-river-canyon-palm-springs\"<\/p>\n

We spent that night at Palm Springs and, once the sun had set, we really enjoyed the heat of the natural sulphur hot pools that you find there (it sounds stinky, but it was pretty glorious).<\/p>\n

\"fish-river-canyon-river-shade\"<\/p>\n

We had only covered about 18km in total over the first two days, but the terrain changed so much thereafter that in the following three days we managed to cover about 20km each day, and that included some really long lunch breaks.<\/p>\n

Day 3<\/h2>\n

\"fish-river-canyon-first-light\"<\/p>\n

On our third day, we started walking before sunrise in anticipation of what we knew was going to be a hot day. Besides it feeling rather adventurous waking up and getting ready in the dark, watching the canyon light up as we walked the morning in was pretty special.<\/p>\n

\"fish-river-canyon-skull-horns\"<\/p>\n

Throughout the day, the terrain changed from rocks to boulders to soft sand to hard sand to expanses of desert – needless to say, there was not much desire for chirpy conversation, and a contemplative \u2018one-foot-in-front-of-the-other\u2019 approach was the order of the day.<\/p>\n

Day 4<\/h2>\n

Day 4 was a long day and we started early again. This was the day with the most shortcuts – which made it shorter (obviously), but also meant that we had a change in scenery as we hiked up and over koppies rather than only on the flat in the canyon. In addition to endless sand and rocks, there is a surprising amount of life in the canyon. We saw wild horses, zebra, kudu, baboons, hundreds of species of birds and all sorts of lizards, bugs and spiders. However, it was the rock formations that really caught my attention – they range in shape and form, and are so spectacular that I constantly found myself wondering why on earth this one looked like this, or that one like that.<\/p>\n

\"fish-river-canyon-river-crossing\"<\/p>\n

The further we went, the river got noticeably drier with less pools to swim in. Luckily, it was a lot cooler than the first few days, and so the need for swims wasn’t as great. On one of the shortcuts we encountered a troop of very curious baboons. They weren’t threatening or aggressive at all, but it was a reminder to close our bags up when we stopped for rests or at our overnight camping spots, so that the baboons didn’t steal any precious food.<\/p>\n

Day 5<\/h2>\n

\"fish-river-canyon-cliffs-blue-sky\"<\/p>\n

On the morning of day 5, we spent a lot longer at camp, enjoying the sunrise and relaxing into the last day of the hike. The hiking on day 5 is by far the easiest, with pretty flat, hard terrain. It took us much quicker than we had anticipated to get to Ai-Ais – when we reached the 80km point there was a little bit of sadness realising that it was almost all over!<\/p>\n

Recommendations<\/strong><\/h2>\n